There’s a mosquito buzzing around my office as I sit here typing at 9AM.
It is almost summer here in the southern US, and the annual plagues have begun.
A wasp set up shop in my laundry room. I’m allergic to wasp venom. Can’t find the wasp nest.
Last night about a dozen huge cockroaches rained down into my backyard from an oak tree onto my head. One flew into my face. I smashed it on the steps before running inside.
I can’t wait to get away from July’s thick humidity and bugs and punishing heat. To be in the mountains with cool temps and low humidity and nary a mosquito in sight.
The air smells different in northern Iceland. It smells like blue steel and detachment. It doesn’t smother you on late spring evenings or stagnate in swamps in August like the air here. Iceland air comforts no one and keeps moving.
If I concentrate, I can conjure the smell.
And if I cannot go, if I have to cancel my trip, if this pandemic is still swinging through July, then I have a back-up plan.
More on that later.
Everyone stay safe. I’m done being anxious and scared. What happens will happen.
This is Hornstrandir National Reserve in the Westfjord region of Iceland.
It’s only accessible by boat. Most people take the boat from Ísafjörður. You can take a plane to Ísafjörður from various places in Iceland including Reykjavik and Akureyri. My home bases in July are right outside Akureyri. Here’s a better idea of where it is situated in relation to the rest of the country.
Next time I go to Iceland I’ll have to explore the eastern region. Not this time, though.
It’s about a 5 1/2 hour drive to Ísafjörður from Akureyri, or else a 40 minute flight on Air Iceland Connect for about … oh damn 500 dollars!? Yikes. Maybe I’ll drive. Would be cool to take my time and make a day of it driving there. It’s not like I have to race sunset. The sun won’t set.
You can camp there. It’s called the most remote and wild part of Iceland.
I think I want to camp there. For a night or two.
Now I’m trying to figure out how to make that happen.
Arctic foxes live there. They’re the largest mammals on Iceland but still they are pretty small.
They’re not scared of people and they are curious and like to play. They also like to steal your food so you have to keep it out of reach/packed away any time you leave your site.
I rented an SUV yesterday for the last week I’ll be in Iceland, so I can take rented camping gear with me if I drive (and if the weather turns bad, car camp). Assuming I can find rentable camping gear in or near Akureyri or somewhere along the way. I have my own gear here but getting that on a plane from the states and back is ehhhh… I don’t know about that. Maybe, though. All I really need is a tent, a sleeping bag and stuff to make a fire. I can bring water in, and food. If there’s a place in Ísafjörður to rent camping gear, may just do that.
There are a handful of things keeping me going through this pandemic right now. This trip, the epic parties and shows that are going to happen once we can see each other again, my new job (signed my offer letter Monday!), all my new seeds that are sprouting, and a few others too personal to mention. Sometimes when I start feeling hopeless and angry, I look at my photos from last year’s trip and remember. I just found out my work from home arrangement has been extended til the beginning of May. Kinda going stir crazy in my house right now. It may sound silly but Iceland is helping me get through it.
Cabins, flights (domestic and international) and two hotel rooms are booked as of this morning. All the crucial stuff is squared away.
Now I just have to hope that whatever job I get between now and this summer has a hiring manager who will be OK with my trip. And that the pandemic isn’t still shutting down travel. My trip is 4 months away. If we’re still on lock-down in 4 months then I think there will be way bigger problems to deal with than my vacation.
I mean honestly there are already much larger issues to deal with in my life than my summer vacation, but I’m focusing on this because it gives me something to look forward to and I have a bit of control over it, to an extent. This is my light at the end of the tunnel that has been 2020 so far.
Instead of trying to make same-day connections at the two airports, I have booked a hotel in Reykjavik for the night I land and then one near Keflavik for the night I am leaving. The international airport in Iceland is 45-50 mins away from Reykjavik in Keflavik, and the domestic airport servicing Iceland and also I think Greenland is located in Reykjavik. I’m landing early – 8:30AM – in Iceland from the US. Assuming (!!!) everything goes on schedule. (Spoiler: it won’t.) The point is I gave myself enough time between the two flights (one full day) in case/when something goes wrong and I get delayed. Altogether I have 12 nights in Iceland: 2 nights in hotels in the south and 10 nights in cabins in the north. Two weeks’ total travel. That is a reasonable vacation request.
I get to see Godafoss again. Maybe this time from the ground.
I’m cautiously excited. A lot can go wrong in 4 months. A lot has already gone wrong, which caused me to drop my extensive Norway and Sweden plans. Trying not to dwell on that. I’m really disappointed not to see northern Norway and Sweden this summer. But to be back in Iceland! Feels like a homecoming. I rebooked two of the same places I stayed in last time, and one of the hosts messaged me to say he remembered me and was glad I was returning.
The pilot from Circle Air remembered me from last year, too. We might go to Greenland on a day trip in his Cessna.
These are my people! I found them. I’m going to see them again.
I was just thinking yesterday I don’t have to buy any gear like I did last year – now I have everything I need. However, I might pick up a satnav. That’s the only thing I am missing, and especially if I go hiking up into the highlands I will need a satnav. And I know where everything is, too. It’s not as much of an adventure as going to a brand new place, but that’s ok. I will see parts of Iceland I’ve never seen yet. I will have a rental car the whole time in the north and so will be able to drive all around.
This time I hope to see puffins, do some mountain hiking and cross the Arctic circle. One of the cabins is located on a horse ranch so I will be taking riding lessons on Icelandic ponies.
Sending a plea to whatever gods favor me that nothing else goes wrong. No more hindrances between me and the land of fire and ice. I can already smell the sulfur.
It’s looking worse than ever for a Scandinavian summer.
I have not yet canceled my living space reservations or my flight to Grimsey Island in Iceland with Circle Air, but it’s not looking great for travel this summer due to the pandemic now. I am hesitant to purchase plane tickets, as no one knows when this pandemic will be over or what new travel restrictions may be put into place in the meantime or how long they will last. I could buy tickets now for super cheap, I bet, but I may not even be able to use them this summer if Norway or the US or a connecting flight country has travel bans in place. Also, I am concerned about a massive tourist influx in the summer/fall happening due to all of the trips that have been canceled for spring. This would drive up costs on an already-expensive trip and make travel total hell with the swarms of catch-up travelers, packed planes and airports, etc.
This is some shit!
I am lucky in that I am able to work from home for the foreseeable future while this pandemic runs its course. I have 2500 or so books, a robust Roku menu, my cat and my art projects to keep me entertained. I am also in possession of an Israeli civilian gas mask – long story, was for a costume, never ended up using it.
The news is worse every day. Hard to get accurate information as we’re still learning about this new virus, and I’ve been mostly staying off social media because the misinformation and stupidity is running rampant there and it’s pissing me off. I read the CDC dedicated website, bbc, the New York Times daily paper and my local news. I never watch the news because I don’t enjoy sensationalist, cherry-picked emotionally-charged garbage or feeling manipulated by creepy talking heads.
There are a lot of very stupid people in this world. I feel sorry for the doctors and scientists struggling against a tidal wave of panic and misinformation, doing their best to shout above the mayhem and relay accurate information to a hysterical public.
Please do your part to stay calm, get your info from reliable sources such as those linked above, take care of the elderly and infirm around you such as friends, family and neighbors… and for fuck’s sake, stop hoarding supplies.
I am still waiting on a few things to come through before I’ll be able to 100% firm up Norway trip plans. The longer I have to wait, though, the more expensive plane tickets will be. I don’t think there will be a large difference between prices now and prices in April, though. I hope not My current estimate for 6 plane tickets during peak travel season to and from Scandinavia is hovering around 3G.
If I can’t go as planned, it will be a severe bummer but I can always go another time? I feel like people say that and then they never get around to actually going.
I mentioned in the FAQs that my company offers what is called “permissive leave” – unlimited paid vacation, within reason, as long as it’s approved by your manager. Now that I am being forced to find another job, I am trying as hard as I can to stay within the company for this benefit and for several other reasons. But there is a small chance I will have to take on a new role outside of my current company, as much as I would rather not. If that happens, then Norway almost definitely is NOT happening this year.
I will know more in a couple of weeks. One way or another, this situation will be resolved by the end of March.
I found this awesome map of some of the best beaches in Lofoten. I’ll be there two days, so I can probably hit a handful of these, maybe more. Check out 68 North’s website for killer photographs, tour info, videos and incredibly detailed hiking guides.
I’m back to trip planning as of today. My work future is still murky but I want this trip to be in my future, so I am proceeding as if I am still going. Hope is the thing with feathers. Getting to my stay outside of Narvik will be either an expensive cab or a feat of logistical gymnastics, can’t quite tell yet.
Probably the cab.
The Narvik airport is one hour from the city, and it’s not a straight drive. It’s a drive through mountains that look like this.
After flying for over 15 hours through 7 time zones, I think I’ll opt for the direct route. The other option is bus from airport to Narvik bus station (1 hr 15 mins), then call a cab and hope one is available while I stand around like a goon with my luggage in a bus station, jetlagged and irritable. THEN I have to go to my stay, dump the stuff, and take the cab back another 20 minutes to the car rental place, jump through all the car renting hoops, and then drive myself back to the stay through those mountains and hope Google Maps is working and there are guardrails because holy F I am going to be tired and in no shape to drive.
This is all contingent on when I land, too. If things are not open, then I will have to get the car the next day. And the airport bus only runs a few times a day.
I wonder if I can arrange a cab ahead of time. I bet I can. I will do that.
I’ve been researching the 11th century berserkers this week and have a draft working of what I am learning. Will post it soon. Fascinating story.
I got some news today at work about a possible reorg coming soon, so I am holding off on finalizing my plans for Norway etc. until I know what is happening with work. Hopefully I can still do my trip in July. I will keep this blog posted. Please post funny cat pictures in comments in the meantime. The future is uncertain as of right now and I am sad.